Mountanieering Tourism
Good Places to Hike in Azerbaijan
Most are one-day trips out of Baku.
Left: Beshbarmag" means "Five Fingers".
1. Absheron Peninsula
Less than an hour's distance from Baku, on the north coast of the peninsula, there's a pleasant walk of a couple of hours along the low cliffs, starting east of private "baghs" or "dachas" ("summer" homes) beyond the power station at Shuvalan. There are also sandy beaches extending as far as the small port of Dubandi. Beyond that, you'll find a lighthouse overlooking Pirallahi Island and its run-down oilfield installations.
On the other side of the peninsula - that long, thin tongue of Shah Dili (on the Absheron archipelago) - the land extends south into the Caspian Sea, with pathways or beaches on either side of the archipelago. This is a national refuge area, and you're in for a treat if you hike here in the winter when thousands upon thousands of birds migrate southward with a stopover in Azerbaijan.
2. Pirgulu
The asphalt road from Shamakhi to Pirgulu is open most of the year and is a favorite day trip by car from Baku. The cabins near the Observatory are a good place to stay overnight, in summer or winter. There are several walking routes from here, into the valleys to the north and south, passing through low woods. The slopes up from the Observatory are also good for cross-country skiing.
For a longer trip, these slopes eventually lead to the mountain ridges above Lahij, which can be walked in a long day. (It's about 25 km and a rather steep descent.) At the end of the climb, there's the prospect of a hot bath in a 19th century bathhouse/sauna, a meal of shashlik (lamb kabab) and a bed at the adjacent farmer's house near the stream as you enter the village.
3. South of Shamakhi
The roads south of Shamakhi run through open grasslands. Side roads lead to spurs and river valleys heading to Aghsu and the dry central plain of Azerbaijan. In the spring these hills are covered with wildflowers, and if the air is clear, there are excellent views of the valley across to the Lesser Caucasus and Karabakh.
4. Ismayilli
The valleys northwest of Ismayilli are interesting places to explore. This region is about the limit in distance that one can do comfortably in a day trip from Baku. Areas on the south side of the main chain of the Caucasus are designated as national parks. The sizeable village of Galajig is very welcoming, with many old houses set among the trees. Above the village, the valleys climb up to open meadows, providing excellent opportunities for walking.
5. Khizi
The road to Khizi heads west from Gilazi, an hour north of Baku. It passes the spectacular "Candy Cane" mountains that are composed of different colored shale before reaching the small town of Khizi. Leading west in the valley after Khizi, dirt roads head up a narrowing valley and into very thick woods, much of them beech. There's a path leading up past a small waterfall that reaches open farmland after a few kilometers and a few hundred meters' climb. From there, one can either return by the same route or head west down the steep slopes to the Altiaghaj road. There's also a route south to the woods to Larimja, from which another good dirt road leads to Altiaghaj.
6. Dubrar Dagh
This is a peak with an altitude of 2,000 meters to climb from a dirt track off the road to Altiaghaj. This trail starts near the mineral-water collection station and climbs several hundred meters. The hills are not wooded, so there are good views when it's clear. You'll find many shepherds with their flocks there in the summer.
7. Beshbarmag
The name of this dramatically shaped mountain translates as "Five Fingers". It's another favorite place that attracts many tourists in every season. There's a considerable difference in the landscape with the seasons. In the winter and spring, the mountain is blanketed in lush green; in the summer and autumn, everything has baked under the sun and turns yellow-brown. When drivers pass this point on the road to Guba, they know they are finally arriving at the rich farmlands and orchards of northern Azerbaijan. Beshbarmag can be climbed "direct" from the new mosque along the main road, or one can take a different route up along the ridge from the valley leading from the Zarat DYP (Dovlat Yol Polisi - National Highway Patrol).
8. Tikhli to Beshbarmag
This is a 4-5 hour walk from the village before Khizi, heading east across the ridges and valleys, to Beshbarmag. In spring the wildflowers are very colorful, and as you ascend each ridge, you'll enjoy ever-closer views of the "Five Finger" mountain.
9. Chirag Castle
Another popular destination for family outings, by car, or larger groups by bus, is Chirag Castle. This fortress, though in desperate need of repair, is one of the most impressive ancient towers of the region. Built in the 5th century by the Sassanids, the castle was used up through the 18th century as part of the southern defenses of the khanate of Guba. It can be reached by the asphalt road from Davachi, past the sanatorium at Galaalti or from the road from Siyazan through the oilfield. Good walks can be made up the ridge north of the castle through dense woods. There's also a 6-km hike from the village of Dashlig Yanar along the ridge toward the castle, with changing views of it en route.
10. Tangaalti Gorge
South of the Guba road, there are several ways to reach the gorge of Tangaalti. This countryside is very fertile, watered by rivers that originate high in the Caucasus. Beyond the gorge, the valley opens up again with excellent places to hike in the hills on either side. There are some impressive cliffs on the southern side, and a good walk up to about 1,900 meters from the villages above the dirt road that crosses the river about a kilometer south of the gorge. On clear days there are excellent views across the foothills to the Caspian sea.
11. Gusarchai Valley
The valley heading up into the mountains southwest of Gusar is fascinating and full of places to walk. From the village of Anig, there's a hike up a side valley over to the next river, which leads to the Long Forest Resort and the Guba-Gusar road. Further up the Gusarchai valley, the dirt road becomes steeper and is difficult in wet weather, but it leads to the village of Laza with its famous waterfalls.
The hike up the valley from Laza is alpine in beauty, with the peaks of Gizildagh and Shahdagh towering above Gusarchai's cascading waterfalls.
For an overnight walk, this route can be followed through a pass to the isolated village of Khinalig, about 15 kilometers from Laza, which is accessible by road only about two or three months of the year because of the rivers one must ford. Khinalig is known for having its own distinct language.
12. Talish Mountains
Though too far away for a single day trip, the Talish mountains of southern Azerbaijan are beautiful places to drive through and to hike. The first 20 kilometers or so up the valleys to Yardimli and Lerik are thickly wooded, but with many paths to explore.
Lerik is famous as a region for its number of centenarians. Further up, the woods give way to open farmland and grassland with many villages. Around Yardimli, paths lead to the rolling hills of the border region with Iran. Beyond Lerik, there are higher peaks, begging to be explored.